{"id":3583,"date":"2018-01-27T16:44:01","date_gmt":"2018-01-27T14:44:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.libridergi.org\/2015-en\/trans-2015-en\/lbr-0150"},"modified":"2018-02-09T10:45:53","modified_gmt":"2018-02-09T08:45:53","slug":"lbr-0150","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.libridergi.org\/en\/2018-en\/lbr-0150","title":{"rendered":"Orta\u00e7a\u011f\u2019da \u0130slam Mutfa\u011f\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Orta\u00e7a\u011f\u2019da \u0130slam Mutfa\u011f\u0131<\/h2>\n

Lilia ZAOUALI<\/h3>\n
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ISBN:<\/strong> 97860587379602
\nPage:<\/strong> 192
\nPublication Date:<\/strong>\u00a02016
\nLocation:<\/strong> \u0130stanbul
\nPublisher: <\/strong>Ruhun G\u0131das\u0131 Kitaplar Yay\u0131nlar\u0131<\/p><\/div>

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LIBRI<\/em>\u00a0III (2017) 103-105<\/strong>
\nDOI<\/strong>:\u00a010.20480\/lbr.2018020
\nReceived Date<\/strong>: 18.01.2018 | Acceptance Date<\/strong>: 23.01.2018
\nOnline Publication Date<\/strong>: 25.01.2018
\nCopyright \u00a9 Journal of Book Notices, Reviews and Translations,\u00a02018<\/p>\n

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L.\u00a0ZAOUALI, Orta\u00e7a\u011f\u2019da \u0130slam Mutfa\u011f\u0131<\/em>. \u0130stanbul 2016. Ruhun G\u0131das\u0131 Kitaplar Yay\u0131nlar\u0131, 192 sayfa. \u00c7ev. B. Baysal. ISBN: 97860587379602<\/strong><\/p>\n

Orjinalinde L\u2019islam a Tavola. Al Medioevo a Oggi<\/em> olarak \u0130talyanca yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olan kitap Medivial Cuisine of the Islamic World: A Concise History with 174 Recipes<\/em> olarak 2007\u2019de \u0130ngilizce\u2019ye \u00e7evrilmi\u015f ve Bar\u0131\u015f Baysal taraf\u0131ndan da dilimize kazand\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Charles Perry’nin \u00d6ns\u00f6z<\/em>\u2019\u00fc (7-14) ile ba\u015flayan kitap, Orta\u00e7a\u011f Arap a\u015f\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve di\u011fer \u00e7e\u015fitli yaz\u0131larla derlenen yazmalar\u0131 terc\u00fcme eden ve d\u00fczenleyen modern bilim adamlar\u0131n\u0131n eserini de konu al\u0131p Orta\u00e7a\u011f Arap a\u015f\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n kaynaklar\u0131 \u00fczerine kurularak 3 ana b\u00f6l\u00fcmden olu\u015fmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

K\u00fclt\u00fcrel Ge\u00e7mi\u015f ve Mutfak Ba\u011flam\u0131 <\/em>(15-60) isimli ilk b\u00f6l\u00fcm kendi i\u00e7eri\u00adsinde iki alt ba\u015fl\u0131k alt\u0131nda incelenmektedir. \u0130lki, D\u00fcnya Mutfaklar\u0131n\u0131n Kesi\u015fme Noktalar\u0131<\/em>\u2019nda (17-51) X. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalma Abbasi Ba\u011fdat\u0131\u2019ndan XIII. y\u00fczy\u0131ldaki Halep’e, Ba\u011fdat’a ve Cordoba\u2019ya kadar tarih boyunca uzanan orijinal Arap\u00e7a bask\u0131lar\u0131 do\u011frudan \u00e7iziyor. Hepsi sarayl\u0131 ve aristokratlar taraf\u0131ndan yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, yemek tarifleri ve mutfak prosed\u00fcrleri d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda edebi f\u0131kralar, \u015fiirler, \u00f6nemli ziyafetlerin tasvirleri ve sa\u011fl\u0131k-hijyen \u00fczerine s\u00f6ylemler i\u00e7eren \u00e7evrelerinin zenginli\u011fini yans\u0131t\u0131yorlard\u0131. Bu ilgi \u00e7ekici ve bilgilendirici kitapta Zaouali, mut\u00adfak yaz\u0131lar\u0131 i\u00e7in bir ba\u011flant\u0131 sa\u011flamak ad\u0131na tarihsel anlat\u0131lar\u0131 \u00f6rg\u00fctleyerek t\u0131p metinleri gibi tamamlay\u0131c\u0131 materyal sunmaktad\u0131r. Yemek tarifelerinin tarihsel ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel ge\u00e7mi\u015fi, mutfak ge\u00e7mi\u015fi kaynaklar\u0131, yemek tarifleri ve \u00e7evrelerinin ana kitaplar\u0131n\u0131n yazarlar\u0131 ve dini kaynaklardan al\u0131nan kurallar ve etkiler hakk\u0131nda geni\u015f kapsaml\u0131 bilgiler yer almaktad\u0131r. Ard\u0131ndan \u00e7e\u015fitli tarihsel ge\u00e7\u00admi\u015f\u00adlerden gelen mutfak etkileri hakk\u0131nda bilgi edinerek Antik D\u00f6nem, Arabis\u00adtan \u00e7\u00f6l ve vahalar\u0131, \u0130ran saray mutfa\u011f\u0131, T\u00fcrk i\u015fgalleri ve \u0130spanya da d\u00e2hil olmak \u00fczere \u00e7e\u015fitli fethedilen topraklardaki k\u00fclt\u00fcrel karakterlerin etkile\u015fimleri s\u0131ra\u00adlan\u0131r.<\/p>\n

B\u00f6l\u00fcmle ilgili can al\u0131c\u0131 nokta s\u00f6zc\u00fckler ile terimlerin s\u00fcreklili\u011fi ya da yok ol\u00admas\u0131d\u0131r. Kitapta iki t\u00fcr yemek olan sikbaj<\/em> ve tharid<\/em> ise Orta\u00e7a\u011f mutfa\u011f\u0131nda \u00f6n plana \u00e7\u0131kmaktad\u0131r. Bir Pers dilinde bir kelime olan sikbaj<\/em>, sirke ve \u015fekerde veya balda pi\u015firilen etleri farkl\u0131 versiyonlarda d\u00fczenlenirdi. Peygamber Efen\u00addimizin en sevdi\u011fi s\u00f6ylenen tharid<\/em>, \u00f6\u011f\u00fct\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f ekmek \u00fczerine d\u00f6k\u00fclen bir et suyundan olu\u015fan \u00f6z\u00fcnde Arap yeme\u011fidir. Yine, bu yemekler, kaliteli etler, baharatlar, ya\u011flar, f\u0131nd\u0131klar, peynirler ve benzerleri ile sarayda pi\u015firme konu\u00adlar\u0131nda \u00e7ok geli\u015fmi\u015f varyasyonlara sahipti. Sikbaj<\/em> terimi Arap\u00e7a ve Fars\u00e7a uzun s\u00fcredir varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor ve belki ge\u00e7mi\u015fin sert zevklerini b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6steriyor. Yeni D\u00fcnya\u2019daki gibi, \u0130talya ve \u0130spanya\u2019da escabache<\/em> ve t\u00fcrevleri\u00adnin sikbaj<\/em>‘dan t\u00fcremi\u015f olduklar\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcr ve tipik olarak (ayn\u0131 zamanda zeytinlere ve nadiren de keklik gibi) so\u011fuk yenilen salamura ya da marine edi\u00adlen bal\u0131k \u00e7e\u015fitlerini g\u00f6sterir. Basit ve genel olan tharid<\/em>, pek \u00e7ok bi\u00e7imde ve farkl\u0131 isimler alt\u0131nda devam ediyor. Anadolu\u2019da lava\u015f \u00fczerine suyunda ha\u015flan\u00adm\u0131\u015f kuzu eti olan tirit, Arap D\u00fcnyas\u0131\u2019nda ise farkl\u0131 isimler almaktad\u0131r: M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019da ve Levant B\u00f6lgesi\u2019nde yayg\u0131n olan ise galeta unu i\u00e7irir ve et suyu i\u00e7inde yer al\u0131r, s\u0131kl\u0131kla koyun ve kuzunun aya\u011f\u0131 veya i\u015fkembesinden yap\u0131l\u0131r. \u00c7o\u011funlukla ekme\u011fe yo\u011furt, pirin\u00e7 ve bazen de sirke eklenir. Irak’ta pirin\u00e7 ve yo\u011furt olan\u00addan yap\u0131lana tashrib<\/em> ad\u0131 verilir; bir \u00e7e\u015fit ekmek \u0131slatmad\u0131r. Kelimeler ve mal\u00adze\u00admeler \u00e7e\u015fitli yollarla birbirini isimler de\u011fi\u015fse de s\u00fcrekli takip eder.<\/p>\n

\u0130kinci ve son alt ba\u015fl\u0131k olan Malzemeler, Teknikler ve Terminoloji<\/em>\u2019de (51-60) kap ka\u00e7ak olarak alt\u0131n ve g\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f malzemenin yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131; ama \u0130slam\u2019da ya\u00adsak oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in killi kaplar (1 kez) s\u0131rl\u0131 kaplar (5 kez) kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, metal\/s\u00f6\u011f\u00fct a\u011fac\u0131\/has\u0131r \u015fi\u015f, bak\u0131r k\u00e2se\/huni, bileyici, kevgir ve balta gibi malzemeler de mevcut olmu\u015ftur. Ayr\u0131ca mayal\u0131 \u00e7e\u015fniler ve baharat kar\u0131\u015f\u0131mlar\u0131ndan da s\u0131k\u00e7a bahsedilerek yemeklerin ah\u015fap masa ya da yere serilmi\u015f \u00f6rt\u00fc \u00fczerinde yen\u00addi\u011finin alt\u0131 da \u00e7izilmi\u015ftir. Pi\u015firme y\u00f6ntemi olarak \u2018bir kaynat\u0131m\u2019, \u2018iki kaynat\u0131m\u2019 ya da \u2018gerekli miktarda\u2019 ifadeleri kullan\u0131larak terimler ve \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcler ifade edilmi\u015f\u00adtir.<\/p>\n

Kitab\u0131n ana ve ikinci b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc Orta\u00e7a\u011f Gelene\u011fi<\/em> (61-128), so\u011fuk mezeler (9 adet), ekmek ve et suyu (5 adet), tatl\u0131 ve ek\u015fi yemekler (14 adet), rostolar, k\u00f6fteler ve sosisler (11 adet), k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 et-k\u00fcmes hayvanlar\u0131 (9 adet), bal\u0131klar (23 adet), peynir ve di\u011fer mand\u0131ra \u00fcr\u00fcnleri (10 adet), \u00e7orbalar (7 adet), ma\u00adkarna (9 adet), kuskus (5 adet), pilav-omlet (11 adet), soslar (6 adet), hamur i\u015fleri (14 adet) ve fermente edilmi\u015f \u00e7e\u015fniler ile \u015farap (10 adet) t\u00fcr\u00fcne g\u00f6re s\u0131n\u0131fland\u0131r\u0131lan tariflerden olu\u015fmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Son b\u00f6l\u00fcm ise, yazar\u0131n orta\u00e7a\u011f gelenekleriyle bir miktar s\u00fcreklili\u011fe sahip oldu\u011funa inand\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00c7a\u011fda\u015f Kuzey Afrika Mutfa\u011f\u0131<\/em>\u2019ndan (131-160) gelen tarif\u00adleri i\u00e7ermektedir. \u0130\u00e7erikler, y\u00f6ntemler, modern a\u015f\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131nda Yeni D\u00fcnya \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00adle\u00adrinin yayg\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131, orta\u00e7a\u011f mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n temelinde yer alan bir\u00e7ok malzemenin unutulmas\u0131 ve terk edilmesi (\u00f6zellikle murri<\/em>, \u00e7\u00fcr\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f tanelerden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir \u00e7e\u015fnidir, g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015fe g\u00f6re soya sosunu and\u0131r\u0131yor) ve baharat, sirke ve \u015fekerin g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc lezzetlerinin azalmas\u0131 s\u00fcreklilik sa\u011flamad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ger\u00e7e\u011fini g\u00f6stermektedir. B\u00f6l\u00fcm, Orta\u00e7a\u011f tarifleri k\u0131sa \u00f6ns\u00f6zlerle okuyucuya sunularak bunlar\u0131n mo\u00addern mutfakta haz\u0131rlanmas\u0131n\u0131n m\u00fcmk\u00fcn oldu\u011funu ve modern bir lokanta i\u00e7in sevindirici olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6nermektedir. Ayr\u0131ca baharatlar\u0131n say\u0131s\u0131 ve \u00e7e\u015fitlili\u011fi ile tavsiye edilen sirke miktar\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan atalar\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 t\u00fcrleri olduklar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr.<\/p>\n

Bu \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmada antik\u00e7a\u011fdan g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze kadar yap\u0131lan yiyeceklerin \u00e7e\u015fitli isim\u00adler kullan\u0131lsa da asl\u0131nda ufak de\u011fi\u015fikliklerle her bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc etkileyerek kul\u00adla\u00adn\u0131lmas\u0131 ve bunu antik kaynak, Arap\u00e7a eserler de dahil olmak \u00fczere \u00e7e\u015fitli kay\u00adnaklar baz al\u0131narak olu\u015fturuldu\u011fu anla\u015f\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Tarihsel anlat\u0131lar, anek\u00addotlar, ge\u00e7mi\u015f inan\u00e7 ve zihniyetlerin yeniden yarat\u0131lmas\u0131 ve a\u00e7\u0131klamal\u0131 ta\u00adrifler, Orta\u00e7a\u011f \u0130slam D\u00fcnyas\u0131 mutfa\u011f\u0131nda a\u00e7\u0131k ve anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131r bir \u00fcslupla sunul\u00admaktad\u0131r. Orta\u00e7a\u011f Arap mutfa\u011f\u0131yla ilgili literat\u00fcre de\u011ferli bir katk\u0131s\u0131 olan eser, Kitapta Ge\u00e7en Terimler<\/em> (161-166), Yemek Tarifleri Dizini<\/em> (167-172) ve Genel Dizin<\/em> (173-192) b\u00f6l\u00fcmleri ile son bulmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Akdeniz \u00dcniversitesi
\nAkdeniz Uygarl\u0131klar\u0131 Ara\u015ft\u0131rma Enstit\u00fcs\u00fc
\n<\/strong><\/p><\/div>\n

Durmu\u015f YILDIZ (MA)<\/strong>
\ndurmusyildiz@akdeniz.edu.tr<\/strong><\/p>\n

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